LAKE QUILOTOA AND A BURRO

On this day our plan had been to visit Vulcan Cotopaxi, but eruption warnings and the closure of the refugio meant a change of plans.

I had a novel experience in this wonderful place, but first a little bit of background info.

Laguna Quilotoa is a large 3km wide volcanic caldera that is filled with the most glorious coloured water.  Dissolved minerals create the stunning aquamarine colours, absolutely breath-taking at first sight.  Some of the local folks believe that the lake is botomless.

Quilotoa has a history of very violent pyroclastic eruptions, the last known one was in 1280 (radio-carbon dated) and sent ash showers covering 1,000,000 square kilometres, affecting the pre-Colombian agriculture.

Our 300 metre descent down to the Laguna began at over 3,700 metres via a steep path – quite wide, part scoria, part mud and some steps.  It was very cloudy and cool and raining lightly, so at first the lake was only vaguely discernible.  However, we were blessed – as we descended it gradually cleared and by the time we reached the lake-edge the sun was out and the most breath-taking sight was before us.  The colours were stunning.  Quite a few tourists were there, mostly Spanish speaking people.  The kayaks which were for hire were very tempting, but our time was limited.   In my dreams I will return there one day and paddle right around the lake!

Now I have to confess that I did not make the climb back up on my own two feet.  Right at the start I was well aware that I would need to hire one of the available burros (US $10) to do it for me, on four sturdy and dependable feet.  I would never have made it otherwise.

My burro, Paloma, belonged to a young couple who owned just two, and I believe this is how they make their living (some of my guilt feelings relieved by this thought).  The young woman Marta led Paloma and she was so sweet, quite shy and wearing her local traditional dress.  We managed to converse a tiny bit.

Paloma wore a wooden saddle, tightly cinched and covered by a soft woollen woven blanket, actually quite a comfortable seating arrangement!  I had a wooden pommel to hang onto, in between trying to take photos with one hand.  Paloma seemed well cared for, with no saddle sores or foot problems and she knew exactly when to pause briefly for a few extra breaths.  Such a sure-footed animal.
It was a lovely experience, one I would recommend and well worth the $10.

Marta, who walked briskly up the hill to 3,700,
chatting all the way while I (Ross) had
no spare breath to grunt replies.

If you ever go to Ecuador, do not miss a trip to Laguna Quilotoa!

Sue
PS  Like everyone, I am constantly thinking of the devastation, death and destruction caused by the Ecuador earthquakes and my heart goes out to the people who are suffering untold loss.